Monday, June 6, 2011

Gabs

Gabs, Gabs, Gabs…what to say about Gaborone…

pula means rain and it is also the name of their money

Well it’s the capital of Botswana.  It’s um…um…well, there isn’t much more to say.

Botswana is where I wanted to camp in the desert and have a meerkat sit on my head.  Tickets to that area of Botswana were outrageous, the camp was outrageous but I WANTED to have a meerkat on my head.  When I found out that just the transfer from the airport to the campsite was beyond outrageous  I could no longer justify the outrageousness of what would have only been a long weekend trip. Also, I found a place in South Africa that has a meerkat experience so- crisis averted.

So, having scrapped our trip to the desert in Botswana I started looking into other options. They have an amazing delta area known for their huge elephant populations, but again- outrageous plane tickets and even more outrageous lodges.  If they were going to charge an arm and a leg to sleep on mat under the stars you can imagine what a roof over your head would go for. That’s the thing about Africa- it’s expensive.  Sure, it can be great for a 2 week vacation, but you can’t justify the cost for 2 days.  Or at least I can’t.

Having been to South Africa before and only leaving once to visit Victoria Falls in Zambia, we were anxious to check out neighboring countries.  Gaborone is only a 45 minute flight and not only were the tickets reasonable, but the hotels were too.  Seemed perfect so we booked.

Mmm, hmm…maybe after 2 1/2 years of constant travel you’d think we’d know better than to just book something before actually knowing what there is to do there, but it’s the capital- surely there are things to see!  Right???

Wrong.

Gaborone (pronounced with kinda of that German throaty “H'” sound and then the Spanish “don’t forget the e at the end” thing- Hhhhab-or-ro-nay) is more exciting to say then it is to actually see.  I found a couple (as in 2) tour companies that operated in Gaborone.  Apparently the books from the “First Ladies Detective Agency” or whatever is set there so they offer tours of places found in the novels.

Neither of us has read the novels so we took a cultural/city tour.  I’m not sure what was cultural about it and driving around a very small town being shown the Ministry of Finance building and “oooh there’s the bank”  isn’t exactly what I call a “tour” of any kind.  I call it driving through a small town with an overly excited taxi driver.

Okay, I’m being unfair,  but that tour cost more than our 2 days of hotel! AND please keep in mind that we were running on no sleep.  Our hotel, although very nice, was quite possibly the loudest hotel on earth.  Every sound made was amplified and carried into our room. Seriously, theaters should be modeled after this place.  So after the 706 roosters that seemingly lived under our window woke me up at 3am (HEY!! HEY!!- The sun is coming up in 3 hours!!  COCK-A-DOODLE-DOO!! WAKE UP!! 3 HOUR WARNING!!”) a loud guy decided to get up at 5am and yap until it was time for me to wake up anyway.

People- if you know me- you know I need my sleep.

In all fairness, our guide was super nice and the ONLY good part of the “tour” (save the 3 baskets we bought at a local market- love those baskets!) and he really did teach us a ton about Botswana’s history. I found this  interesting and the Wife thought it was a snorefest.  And that was just the parts she understood! It wasn’t until the next day when I was talking about stuff that I realized she hadn’t understood one word from this guide we had at one of the monuments.

Monuments?!?  Well, that’s something right?  Let me be clear that this monument was the only real “monument” in the place.  The three chiefs that went to London to ask Queen Victoria for protection…

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I'm just being generous and counting the small statue of their first president and a tree as monuments.  Yeah, a tree.  Granted it was a big tree and David Livingstone may have taught the bible underneath it but THIS should not be one of the high points of your day…

David Livingstone tree

The guide took a break from cutting the grass around the tree with a machete to tell us “This is a very old tree. David Livingstone may have taught the bible and people to read under here.” Ta-da!  The end.

We refused to spend one cent on Sunday with any other “tour”.  We literally had a late breakfast, watched a movie and then hung out on the patio reading until it was time to go to the airport.  Actually, Sunday was nice.  The weather was delightful and our hotel people, although obviously not good at hiring architects worth a damn, were very nice and took care of us all day letting us check out late and bringing us beers and ciders while we read. 

I’ve said before that not every weekend can be amazing and that is more than reasonable.  We’re so incredibly blessed and a few so-so weekends here and there don’t matter.   This one may have been our worst ever, but hey- at least we traveled! At least we ventured out and gave it a shot, even if we came back empty-handed.  How do you know until you go? 

As of now, this weekend is up in the air.  We were going to try for Swaziland again, but our passports are going to be tied up with visa processing for Brazil. 

We’re thinking of doing another game drive since we love them so much.  All I know is we’re traveling.  Somewhere. Maybe for only one night, but we’re in Joburg, people and I’d rather fly back up to Gaborone than spend an entire weekend cooped up in this compound.   

the daily(ish)

Our Indian cooking lessons…

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I’m going to be able to make a mean chicken tikka masala when we get back.  For all our friends back home that say they don’t eat Indian- you’re going to very soon.

Friday, June 3, 2011

the glamorous life

Before departing on this adventure we call life, we asked for advice from current people in the department. An American warned us “Don’t bring expensive clothes or anything you really love because hotel laundry will DESTROY it!”. Now, I will say that we traveled with this girl our very first round and never did I see even one of her hairs out of place, nor was there ever a moment where didn’t look like she had just stepped out of a Ralph Lauren catalog- but she was right. Oh, so right.


I found a hole in yet another article of clothing this morning as I packed for the weekend. That makes 5 pieces of clothing that I’ve found holes in since we arrived here. I’ve had things ruined before, but the sheer quantity and massive size of the holes can only lead me to believe that the hotel laundry in Australia was staffed by rabid monkeys.


I’m scared to look for more. I already have so few things to wear and per our friend’s advice, none of it is too nice anyway. I’m already wearing (and re-wearing) the bare basics every single day and now most of those basics have holes in them.


I realize I’m the farthest thing from a fashionista and it has only gotten worse on the road, just be ready for my new look- “un-chic hobo”.


Boo-hoo, right? I know some people would love to have the chance to have someone else do your laundry for you. Take it from someone who has no choice- not so great.


I’d kill for access to a washer/dryer and some good ol’ Tide and you seriously don’t want to know what I’d do for some Downey and a couple of dryer sheets.

the daily(ish)

Georgia on our minds…

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Specifically- the Wife’s hometown. 

Thursday, June 2, 2011

the daily(ish)

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I go to bed and wake up to this photograph every single day.  It’s of what looks like a pretty cool rock formation, probably even found somewhere in South Africa. The only thing is- I can’t look at it without seeing the mushroom cloud of an atom bomb. 

I. hate. it.

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

the daily(ish)

We’ve started a little tradition of eating together on Wednesday nights.  First week was Indian and last week was Argentinian…

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These empanadas were outrageously good with different delicious fillings and perfectly flakey crust.  She made about one million of them.

Today is my turn and I’m afraid MM has set the food bar far too high. 

I’m making Southern fare which I didn’t make that often anyway since it isn’t exactly healthy. People- I’m making homemade biscuits.  Once upon a time I used to make awesome biscuits.  We’ll see how it goes.

Wish me luck- I’ve been out of practice a looooong time.

Tuesday, May 31, 2011

the daily(ish)

Sunset from our little balcony…

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Seriously- the best sunsets in the world can be found in Africa.

Monday, May 30, 2011

lesedi

 

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I was pretty disappointed that we couldn’t  go carry buckets of water in the middle of nowhere, Swaziland this weekend.  We all have preconceptions of what something should be like and well,  Johannesburg, or at least the areas where we live behind the safety of guarded compounds with fancy malls, is just not what I had  thought Africa would be like. I realize that it is 2011 and time, no matter how slowly, is moving forward for most of the world.  It’s just that one of my biggest regrets from our time here in 2009 was that we didn’t delve too much into African culture.  We saw one dance show towards the end of our time here and it only made me more disappointed that we didn’t do more.

I really wanted to get a feel for African Africa- not just the animals, but the people.  Since Swaziland didn’t work out I began researching and found the Lesedi Cultural Center was located just a quick drive from Joburg. 

After the cheese-o-rama cultural center in New Zealand, I was a little wary. But the reviews were glowing and as a last minute decision we decided to stay the night after our cultural tour and dinner.

Lesedi highlights 5 of the many different tribal regions in South Africa.  They have a mini-village built for each of the tribes (built by artisans from those tribes and given modern conveniences like running water, electricity and a real bed) and you get guided around learning about the individual cultures.  Each of the villages also offers accommodations.  We chose to stay in the Zulu village because a. the Zulu’s were badass and b. their beehive huts looked amazing…

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The inside was even better…

inside of our zulu hut

Warm and cozy, it smelled like sweet grass inside.  We loved it!

The tour of the villages was very informative and our guide, a Zulu, was beyond knowledgeable about all the tribes, their cultures and their languages.

Everyone was very serious about sharing their culture and there was no hokey-pokey Disney-esque feel about it.  Thank God.

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medicine woman

This guy was by far our favorite though…

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He just had such a great spirit and was always singing and dancing.  How often do you get to sit on a Zulu’s lap?

After our tour we sat around a fire warming up (it was freezing) and then headed in for the dance show.  Wow.  We were one of 2 families staying the night and there was a group of maybe 8 that had joined for a day tour.  It was such an intimate setting and an awesome feeling to have such talented, passionate people performing almost solely for you.

As I mentioned earlier, we saw a stage show in 2009.  It was great, but this was a million times better.  It was so intense and in your face.  The dancers were so prideful and serious.  At many times I literally felt uncomfortable- like I was intruding on some sort of private ceremony or something.

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After the show we had dinner and then nestled down in our little Zulu hut for the night.

Sunday after breakfast we went to a nearby Lion Park to pet some lion cubs…

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Um, yeah.  Are you kidding me?!? 

It was so insane to be able to do this.  Just pay for your ticket, stand in a queue and BOOM- you’re in a cage petting baby lions!  How precious are they and **hello** white lion cubs too?!?  I was so excited I thought my head might explode. 

We also got to climb up to a platform to feed giraffes which was very cool…

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Jules didn’t want to do it for fear of giraffe slobber, but after I assured her their mouths felt like a soft paintbrush she got on board…

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Afterwards we took a little drive around the actual lion park and got to see beautiful lions gnawing down on some grub…

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Definitely more of a “zoo” type experience (just substitute tiny cages for big fenced areas) than our game drives, but since wild lions have such a difficult life it was nice to see some fat and healthy ones. 

Lesedi was such a wonderful experience and I mean, come on, we got to pet this guy…

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I could not have loved South Africa more this weekend.

Tons of pics from the weekend…

the daily(ish)

I’ve been missing this little monkey more than ever lately…


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Each time I’m cooking and drop something on the floor I look down expecting to see her dive-bombing in to scoop it up.


It breaks my heart each and every time.

Friday, May 27, 2011

the daily(ish)

When a fridge and a mini-bar have a baby…

 

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